A visit to Varanasi.....

On an invitation from Department of Mycology & Plant Pathology, Institute of Agriculture Sciences, Banaras Hindu University, I went to Varanasi early this week for 2 days, delivered two guest lectures and discussed with students and staff of the department on biology and taxonomy of agriculturally important fungi. My wife accompanied me and we saw a little of Varanasi, on the sidelines of my stay.

Varanasi

The city of Varanasi in Uttar Pradesh, located on the bank of river Ganga, is the centre of learning of Indian culture, ancient literature, Vedas, music, science, technology and architecture. The city is the symbol of Hindu renaissance and had a special role in the development of our national language Hindi. Sant Tulsi Das wrote the Hindi version of revered Ramayana, ‘Ram Charit Manas’, in this city. Varanasi, also known as Kashi or Banaras, is famous for Shri Vishwanath Mandir and pious pilgrim Ghats on the bank of Ganga, which include Dashashwamedh, Manikarnika, Harischandra and Assi Ghats, to name a few. Lord Buddha preached his first sermon of enlightenment at Sarnath situated at a distance of 20 km from Varanasi. The city is also famous for fine quality Banaras silk saris and muslin clothes.

How this visit came through.....

In the first half of September 1994, we had organized a 10-day duration hands-on workshop entitled ‘Techniques in Aquatic Fungi’ at Department of Botany, Goa University. Dr. Ram Dayal, a specialist on zoosporic soil fungi and distinguished Professor of Mycology & Plant Pathology at BHU was a Resource Person at our workshop. Ten-day long stay in Goa University campus and continued academic interactions, Prof Ram Dayal became a close friend to us. An authority on nematophagous zoosporic soil mycota, Prof. Dayal and his students wrote several research papers and a couple books on these fungi. Before leaving, Dr Dayal invited us to Varanasi and further carefully followed up the matter along with his colleague Prof. Asha Sinha. Twice they invited me earlier but I couldn't make it. Three months ago, Prof. Sinha extended a fresh invitation to deliver two guest lectures in her Department. Now retired from service, I thought that we visit Varanasi, meet Prof Ram Dayal who is now 86 and have a darshan of Lord Vishwanath. That is how we went to Varanasi early this week.....

Guest lectures at Mycology & Plant Pathology Department, Inst. Agric Sciences, BHU.

I delivered my first lecture entitled ‘The Fungi...., addressing global challenges’ on 3^rd Nov 2015 wherein I traced the historical perspectives of fungi, researches made over the time and recent advances in harnessing fungal power to human advantage. On the next day, I lectured on ‘Advances in Taxonomy of Fungi’ in which I elaborated on the past, current advances in phylogenic studies and future of fungal taxonomy.  Both lectures were well-received. Besides, I went around the Department and discussed with staff and research scholars on thrust area of their researches, viz. fungi-mediated biodegradation of organic matter, bio-control of crop pests and diseases using antagonistic fungal formulations and of course nematode–trapping lower fungi. The Department of Mycology & Plant Pathology has done credible work and published valued papers. The department is presently headed by Prof H.B. Singh, my good friend and specialist on antagonistic Trichoderma formulations.

Farmers fair

Coincidence it was, I witnessed a grand ‘Farmers fair’ organized by the Institute of Agriculture Sciences, BHU, on the same day. More than 50 agriculture stalls, numerous farmers, well-displayed produces, the fair is a testimony for high agriculture productivity in the gangetic plains of Uttar Pradesh.

Banaras Hindu University campus.

We stayed at University guesthouse in Varanasi. The BHU campus, spread over 4000 acres on the bank of Ganga, Is one of the largest educational institutions in Asia in terms of its academic activities, number of departments, learning centres and student strength. Well-laid roads, lush green parks, tall trees, expansive buildings, several hostels and a replica of Vishwanath temple, the campus is bubbling with vibrant activities. Naturally, one needs extra time to go around and see the whole place. 

City of Varanasi, Kashi Vishwanath Temple and Dashashwamedh Ghat

Evening of first day, we saw the city of Varanasi, especially Kashi Vishwanath temple and Dashashwamedh Ghat. Roads in Varanasi are most crowded with vehicles of all kinds, from carts and cycle-rickshaws to high-end sedans and people of all kinds, pilgrims, business men and tourists. Narrow lanes leading to the temple and river ghats in Varanasi are lined by age-old buildings but always overcrowded. You will have to make your way through and move on. The human mass, young and old, men and women, natives and foreigners, is so vast, incredible and amazing.  There are hawkers, touts and part-time pundits at every nook and corner, offering help. Securities personnel everywhere in the city, one is frisked at a few places near the temple. We felt well-secured there. Above all, people of Varanasi are very kind, generous and most hospitable. Shravankumar, research student of Prof Asha Sinha accompanied us as a guide everywhere. Very kind man, Shravankumar has been most helpful during our stay in Varanasi.

I had visited the Vishwanath teemple once earlier but this visit with my wife was very special. Sanctum sanctorum of the temple is very divine and intensely pious and being there for a while was most exhilarating. One can perform rudra-abhishek and puja to Bhagwaan Shiv any time of the day. Everyone chanted ‘Jai Bholenath’ and rung shankh and ghanta. There is lot of positive energy at the sanctum sanctorum which one can feel always. We sat there for a while and prayed for the betterment of all. Next, we walked to Dashashwamedh ghat and witnessed the famous ‘Ganga-arati’, performed by 8-10 young, energetic, pundits. The sight of ganga-arathi was so grand and elating. It was a beautifully synchronized performing art, I felt. While on the banks of river Ganga, my wife reminisced a unique anecdote. It seems her great-grand-parents visited Kashi Vishwanath mandir about 120 years ago and she is the next in the family lineage to have visited Kashi! Both of us felt deeply delighted.....!  

My wife picked up a few Banaras silk saris. We travelled a short distance in a cycle rickshaw in one of the by-lanes, sipped hot tea in earthen cups and ate delicious food and sweet curds. Every moment of our stay in Varanasi will remain in our minds as green, enchanting memory.  

Saranath

Next day in the afternoon we went to Saranath where Lord Buddha attained enlightenment and gave first sermon of ‘ahimsa’ to his disciples. We saw the tall statue of Lord Buddha in a meditation posture, a huge Stupa and original Bodhi tree under the canopy of which Buddha preached the first sermon. The place is so lively with enormous positive energy. One has to visit Saranath to feel what I wrote... My wife is a history graduate and visiting Saranath has been one of her dreams. We did exactly that. 

Prof. Ram Dayal

We paid a fond visit to Professor Ram Dayal residing in Lanka, Varanasi. Now at 86, Prof. Dayal is very alert and well-receiving. He was very happy to see us at his place, one of his realized dreams that he said. Being with him for a while undoubtedly was a moment of great joy for me and my wife. Thanking Prof. Asha Sinha, Prof H.B. Singh and Mr Shravankumar for their many kindnesses, we returned to Goa on the next day.

D. Jayarama Bhat