DJ Bhat Fungi

My visit to Dali University, Yunnan, China, as Visiting Professor... Part-3

We enjoyed ‘Song-rong’ (Tricholoma matsutake Ito & Tmai) Singer, a high-value mushroom delicacy in China...

On the 4^th day of our visit in Dali University, Yunnan, China, I found Prof. Su in the Department quite excited, in the morning. I asked the reason for her exhilaration. She showed a bag-full of big-sized, white to brown-coloured robust mushrooms called ‘Song-rong’, botanically known as Tricholoma matsutake (Ito & Tmai) Singer, which she bought in the open market in old city of Dali, Yunnan, China.

These robust, brown-coloured mushrooms had 5-15 cm wide cap and 5-12 cm long stalk or stipe. The stipe was quite filled and sturdy. I was curious to know more about the fungus. Tricholoma matsutake, locally called ‘Song-rong’ or ‘Matsutake’ meaning ‘pine mushroom’ in Chinese (matsu = pine; take = mushroom), has a distinct aromatic odour (like chilled cinnamon?) and is a highly sought after mushroom in China. The fungus grows in mycorrhizal symbiotic association with tree-roots and the fungus is common in high altitude mountains of Yunnan province (1800-2200 m) where pine plantations (Pinus yunnensis) are predominant. In autumn (July to October), the mushrooms appear in plenty in pine tree-bases and local villagers harvest Song rong and sell in open market across Yunnan. Song rong or Matsutake is said to be the costliest among the wild edible mushrooms of China....

Known as a culinary delicacy from the time of Song dynasty in 1050 AD, Song-rong or Matsutake is said to bring good fortune and fertility in the society in China. The villagers harvest the mushrooms, sort out and grade them (based on size and closeness of cap) before bringing to the market. Freshly harvested mushrooms are in very high demand. Soon after purchase, the mushrooms are cleaned, sliced and eaten either raw or par-boiled. The sliced mushrooms are also sun-dried, canned and stored for consumption in off season.

Interestingly, song-rong is also eaten raw. Prof. Su desired and further ensured that I eat enough Matsutake mushroom, in view of its rarity and delicacy, during lunch that day. Accordingly, the whole aquatic fungi group got readied, carefully scraped the surface mud using scalpel and thoroughly washed the mushrooms in running tap water. The king of mushrooms was ready for consumption. Mr Zonglong had brought ‘wasabi’ (pungent chilli paste) from market, mixed it with soya sauce. The fresh, clean mushroom was thinly sliced, dipped in wasabi-soya sauce solution and eaten raw. I ate plenty. The intense odour of mushroom was like ‘chilled cinnamon’. I didn’t know till then that mushrooms also are eaten raw. It was a whole new experience....

Prof. Su and the group sliced the whole lot of Song-rong mushrooms, sun-dried and canned in air-tight plastic containers. I understand that they would rehydrate the sliced mushrooms and prepare mushroom soup in off-seasons.

I am truly fortunate to have eaten this great, king of mushrooms in this trip to China.....!